Afghanistan — May and June

Some of our development projects are in villages without roads. So, when we go check on them, it requires a bit of a hike.
Afghan Month 7 Web 44.jpg
That even means crossing rivers. I *almost* stayed dry. Not surprisingly, this was the first place we went, so I spent the next 8 hours with wet feet. By the time I finally got to change my socks, my feet were a bit pruny.
Afghan Month 7 Web 45.jpg
This road needs lots of work. It’s going to be rebuilt as a major road over the next two years.
Afghan Month 7 Web 46.jpg
Hiking along a little trail coming back from a project.
Afghan Month 7 Web 47.jpg
Off to see another site with the guys.
Afghan Month 7 Web 48.jpg
Although it’s hard to tell from this image, the building in the back is actually a mosque we refurbished. Although we don’t build new mosques, we have rebuilt a number of them. In fact, one of the most requested projects was to repair a major mosque. This is a huge counterinsurgency point for us. The bad guys are not building any new mosques and to repair or build a new mosque flies in the face of the insurgent’s claim that the coalition is fighting against Islam. Or, the other argument is that we only build roads to help ourselves. These mosques are unequivocally for Afghans and only for Afghans. Regardless of religious affiliation, support of these devout people’s religion, which is such a huge part of their life, is paramount.
Afghan Month 7 Web 49.jpg
Walking through the winter wheat fields.
Afghan Month 7 Web 50.jpg
This little guy came up to each of us and shook our hand. He was very cute.
Afghan Month 7 Web 51.jpg
Walking to another mosque site.
Afghan Month 8 Web 01.JPG
This is a basic health clinic we are building in Kapisa. This clinic will be staffed by Afghan health care providers and provide critical medical care for the region. Since there is no electric grid (yet), the main power is via generator. However, as a backup system for critical equipment and lights, there is a solar array. We have begun focusing on clean and renewable energy sources as a part of all our facility construction.
Afghan Month 8 Web 02.JPG
This is inside the clinic where I am pointing out a few construction deficiencies to the contractor. The quality is mediocre, but we work very hard to increase the capacity of these companies, but still ensure our tax dollars are being spent well and effectively.
Afghan Month 8 Web 03.jpg
This is another road we are building. This asphalt road is the main thoroughfare for the province. Before this construction, on average, 500-600 vehicles traveled on this road each day. One of our measures of effectiveness is to determine if there is any change once we complete the project. We’ve already seen the travel time cut in half and taxi fares drop 9 times after the first phase of construction finished.
Afghan Month 8 Web 04.jpg
To increase the effectiveness of the government, we’re building some of the Kapisa ministries a complex to house their staff and equipment. In this case, we have built this complex for the Kapisa Ministry of Education. It will permit them to function more effectively, train teachers, provide tutoring and more efficiently run their department. As you can see, it’s nearing completion and ideally, it will be finished in the next week or two.
Afghan Month 8 Web 05.jpg
I was also fortunate to be able to tour Kapisa via helicopter. It afforded not only magnificent views, but also a chance to inspect our projects from the air.
Afghan Month 8 Web 06.jpg
These mountains are the foothills of the spectacular Hindu Kush range.
Afghan Month 8 Web 07.jpg
An aerial view of a typical Afghan Khana G’lee (Farsi for mud house).
Afghan Month 8 Web 08.jpg
More Afghan natural beauty.
Afghan Month 8 Web 09.jpg
This is down in Kabul province (just south of Kapisa). It’s interesting that this landscape is so close to the major city of Kabul.
Afghan Month 8 Web 10.jpg
Afghan Month 8 Web 11.jpg
Here is another perspective of the Naghlu Reservoir that you’ve seen in earlier posts.
Afghan Month 8 Web 12.jpg
The road in the foreground is one of the roads we are building. It began as a rugged trail barely wide enough for our vehicles and will end early next year as a major asphalt highway.
Afghan Month 8 Web 13.jpg
Another valley in Kapisa.
Afghan Month 8 Web 14.jpg
More winter wheat fields.
Afghan Month 8 Web 15.jpg
You can see why irrigation and water in general is so important to the people of Kapisa.
Afghan Month 8 Web 16.jpg
Afghan Month 8 Web 17.jpg
One of my best friends, Jen, came to visit me at Bagram. She was supposed to deploy to Iraq, but got diverted to Afghanistan. Although her mission isn’t as exciting, I was glad to catch up with her for a few days before she went to work on the staff at Kabul.
So, that wraps up the first half of June.
Until the next post…
–Jim

Afghanistan — May

The pictures on this post are entirely of a multi-day operation we did in Kapisa. The idea was to go out, do a number of quick impact projects, improve the appearance of the area and directly infuse a little cash into the local people’s hands. So, we drove down and set up shop. Also, since the chief was there, you will see a mix of his images and mine.
Afghan Month 7 Web 01.jpg
Here we are setting up camp. Chief’s wide angle does the scene more justice.
Afghan Month 7 Web 02.jpg
Here is Todd negotiating with the contractors for the projects. As with any transaction in Afghanistan, there was much bargaining. We try to always get the best blend of quality and price on any project. So, even a project that was a few thousand dollars, we haggled as much as with a project that is a few million.
Afghan Month 7 Web 03.JPG
OK, so this image may be a little crass, but it’s indicative. We had toilets that usually had water. Unfortunately, the toilets were eastern style squat ones. So, the guys fashioned this chair to westernize the experience.
Afghan Month 7 Web 04.jpg
One of the laborers during the morning meeting.
Afghan Month 7 Web 05.jpg
On the compound, we used colored tape to mark who was working each project. It worked pretty well, and there seemed to be quite a bit of camaraderie.
Afghan Month 7 Web 06.jpg
Here are the two docs (ours and Afghan). They invited me for a traditional Afghan lunch. As usual, it was delicious.
Afghan Month 7 Web 07.jpg
Here’s Todd, with his desk set up to pay all the workers.
Afghan Month 7 Web 08.jpg
One of our infantry soldiers providing security over watch.
Afghan Month 7 Web 09.jpg
We literally put cash in people’s hands. 1000 Afghani is about $20, which is four times the going rate for an unskilled laborer. We knew this would potentially inflate the job market, but felt that getting cash to people was a good stimulus package. Similar to the one in the US, it’s long term effect remains to be seen.
Afghan Month 7 Web 10.jpg
More security over watch while out looking at one of our school projects.
Afghan Month 7 Web 11.jpg
These boys were rather intrigued by us (and the Chief’s camera in particular). We were the first coalition convoy to go to this area in a couple years, so we got a lot of curious stares.
Afghan Month 7 Web 12.jpg
Chief caught me talking to a contractor and one of the guys communicating via the handheld radio.
Afghan Month 7 Web 14.jpg
We are looking over the map doing some mission planning. The boss is in the center with the operations guy on the right and me on the left. Certainly an ad hoc setup, but much like the chair, it worked.
Afghan Month 7 Web 15.jpg
Exterior painting was one of the projects. Although I wouldn’t have chosen that color combination, the people seemed to be pleased. It definitely contrasts with the rest of the buildings in the area.
Afghan Month 7 Web 16.jpg
To my environmentalist friends … I know. I’m sorry.
Afghan Month 7 Web 18.jpg
Driving our vehicles is a lot like driving a big rig. They weigh about the same too!
Afghan Month 7 Web 19.jpg
One of the Afghan National Policemen who stayed with us alongside one of our interpreters.
Afghan Month 7 Web 20.jpg
Our day-laborers were also a captive audience. So, we used their attention to teach dental hygiene. Then, as re-enforcement, offered some dental supplies as handouts.
Afghan Month 7 Web 21.jpg
Again, the people were fascinated to see their image on the digital display.
Afghan Month 7 Web 23.jpg
More workers with rapt attention.
Afghan Month 7 Web 26.jpg
They were all very serious.
Afghan Month 7 Web 28.jpg
However, these guys had been watching me take pictures for a while and apparently thought I was quite amusing. So, when I came over by them, they were all smiles. Of course, it was also the end of the day and they were about to be paid. But, I’d rather think that it was me.
Afghan Month 7 Web 29.jpg
The chief looking like the rugged photographer that he is.
Afghan Month 7 Web 30.jpg
Another Afghan National Policeman.
Afghan Month 7 Web 32.jpg
We also did a few projects out in the ~1,000 shop bazaar. So, to check on them we took a few walks out and about. This is one of the produce stores. Most normal fruit is available. The green vegetables that look like peas are actually an Afghan pepper. They are served with many dishes and are very tasty. In case you can’t tell, I really enjoy the food here.
Afghan Month 7 Web 34.jpg
This is an example of a “jingle” truck … always colorful, sometimes noisy and ubiquitous on the roads of Afghanistan. We also re-furbished the mayor’s office (in the center of the traffic circle in the background).
Afghan Month 7 Web 37.jpg
The jingle trucks also brought in the gravel to place on the dirt roads.
Afghan Month 7 Web 38.jpg
This guys was very happy to have a job with us. Although spreading gravel is easier and better with heavy equipment, it was more beneficial to the people to do it by hand, because it gave many people a job.
Afghan Month 7 Web 39.JPG
This boy’s shop is ingenious. He had a small generator and a number charging stations. It’s a perfect solution for a place in which most people have mobile phones, but with virtually no regular access to electricity.
Afghan Month 7 Web 40.jpg
Although there aren’t many driving rules here … I don’t think this little guy hits the road regularly.
Afghan Month 7 Web 42.JPG
Jon had his promotion ceremony out on site. It was a fitting place to be promoted and witnessed by (nearly) the whole team. I was honored that he asked the Chief and I to pin on his new rank.
Afghan Month 7 Web 43.jpg
Here we all are. It was a very good mission; we connected with the local people, made our presence felt, did a few small projects, and gave me the opportunity to see a number of projects we don’t get a chance to see as often as I would like. All in all, it was a success.
So, until the next post…
–Jim

Afghanistan — April and May

Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_37.jpg
Yet another photogenic and stoic Afghan.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_31.JPG
Just checking on the vehicles to make sure they’re still there. I hate to get stuck without them!
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_34.JPG
This is a provincial sub-governor I met with. We discussed development in his district and how that we can best meet the needs of the people.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_32.jpg
Discussion over a map.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_36.JPG
The always beautiful lakehouse. Every time I see it, I think of Europe. Apparently, that’s what the King wanted. He built it modeled on the lakehouses of Europe.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_38.jpg
These ANA soldiers joined us on a mission and were well armed (as you can see). The ANA is a very well respected organization in Afghanistan (as it should be). So we try to enlist their help and support as much as possible.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_40.jpg
This is on a different patrol, in Parwan Province. As you can see, it’s a little more developed.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_41.jpg
Another view of Parwan. It’s a very beautiful province, and relatively safe.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_42.jpg
Typical houses of the region.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_43.JPG
Some ANA and ANP who we joined for the evening.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_45.jpg
This little boy was so adorable. He was very proud of his suit. His father looked quite proud as well.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_46.jpg
Afghanistan has so much amazing natural beauty that contrasts sharply with the rugged living conditions. It really motivates me to help give the people a chance for success in the future with our infrastructure projects.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_47.JPG
So, I know I haven’t included many construction images. Normally, that’s because the subject matter isn’t that interesting. I kinda like the texture here, so I’m adding it. This is standard Afghan brick and mortar work. Let’s just say, it leaves much to be desired. Fortunately, the brick walls are not normally load bearing, so they don’t have to be super strong. Nonetheless, I always try to have the contractors do quality work.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_48.jpg
This is a partially completed District Center. This building will house the provincial sub-governor and a number of other district staff members.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_49.jpg
The spring is a beautiful time in Afghanistan.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_50.JPG
One of the nice things about the Army, is that they can fly parts in anywhere you need them.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_51.JPG
The guys.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_52.jpg
More natural beauty, and the traffic jam we caused in the village. But, when the vehicle can’t move, and the road isn’t wide enough to pass, there is no other option.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_53.JPG
As a small token for their help, I gave these kids a few school supplies. To make it interesting though, I decided to play a trivia game (with the help of an interpreter, of course). So, I asked the kids questions on a variety of subjects. They really impressed me with their knowledge. Then, they asked me some questions to quiz me and got me on one! Who was the first person in space and what date was the flight? I got Yuri Gagarin, but missed the date (12 April 1961). Once my supplies ran out, I went out to the village and continued the game there. Eventually, I had quite a crowd gathered. It was interesting to see the sentiment of the people change from irritated that they had to wait for us to fix the vehicle to friendly because of the interaction.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_54.jpg
Here we are back near southern Kapisa. The mountains are quite dramatic here as well.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_55.JPG
One of our MRAP silhouetted in the tunnel.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_56.JPG
Here are the guys (and girl) who were with me on the mission. The team is a great group of people.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_57.jpg
Here is one of the roads we’re building. Although it’s not quite as straight as I would like, the road is already significantly improved. I can’t wait to see what it’s like once the asphalt is finished.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_58.jpg
These next two images are of the Kuchi people in Kapisa. Although not a separate ethnicity, they are most often Pashtun and pastoral nomads who spend the winter in the south of Afghanistan and migrate with the season to the north.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_59.jpg
Their camps dotted the valleys in Kapisa for several weeks.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_60.jpg
These girls are a great image to represent the mixed emotion many people feel toward us. Overall, we are seen as helpful, but without a delicate touch, we will most certainly wear out our welcome in the country. If that happens, it would be a great loss for everyone, and things would devolve rapidly. I hope that doesn’t happen, so we work very hard to build positive relations with the people and ensure the government is legitimate and connected with the people. To that end, I believe we have been successful, but there is always more we can do. I will spend the remainder of my time here working toward that goal.
So, until the next post.
–Jim

Afghanistan — March and April

Now that our adventures in South Africa have been appropriately chronicled, I will turn back to my mission in Afghanistan: the reconstruction of Kapisa and Parwan provinces. These two months were filled with many quality assurance inspections to ensure a quality product was being built, contractor meetings to gauge progress and capacity, and Afghan government meetings to plan, program and execute new projects.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_01.JPG
The Afghan government representatives often join us when we go to the sites. For example, here the provincial line director for Rural Rehabilitation and Development joined us to inspect a compacted dirt road. This road is concurrently being paved with asphalt by another contract. Thanks to the chief for capturing this scene.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_03.JPG
Here we are inspecting a deep well (>100 meters). Unfortunately, the quality isn’t quite what I hoped. So, the minister and I offered some suggestions to the contractor. With the chief’s fish-eye lens, you can see the whole scene.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_04.JPG
As you can see, mobile phone technology has pervaded the market. Before 2001, there were no mobile phone carriers. Now, there are four with almost good coverage.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_05.JPG
Answering some of the many questions from the people.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_08.jpg
The people in this area (especially the children) loved to have their picture taken. In particular, the digital display was fascinating.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_07.jpg
If you notice, this is the same man who was intently using his mobile phone.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_09.jpg
These boys were a bit apprehensive at first, but warmed up to us (at least that’s what it appeared).
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_06.JPG
Doesn’t this boy have amazing eyes? Also, many children’s heads are shaved for the Afghan New Year (Mar 21). I was told they do that to help it grow back better in the future.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_11.jpg
These next few images are of the people in the area.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_12.jpg
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_13.jpg
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_14.jpg
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_15.jpg
The flowers were in bloom. As a good husband, he picked a bouquet for his wife.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_16.jpg
These flowers poked out in one of the HESCO barriers on the forward operating base we stayed at.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_17.jpg
These kids were collecting water for their family from the river.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_18.JPG
It was still a bit chilly on this trip.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_19.JPG
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_20.JPG
The view from the inside of our vehicle.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_21.JPG
As much as I enjoy getting out to our projects, this room is where I spend a lot of time. Here we are meeting with the government officials to help us select a contractor. Once that contractor is chosen, we meet often to discuss everything from the design to execution of the project.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_22.JPG
Here are a couple contract proposals. We’ve worked extensively to train companies (~200) on how to submit an adequate proposal. As a result, we’ve seen a huge leap in the quality of proposals submitted for our projects.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_23.jpg
Here we are back out in another part of the province.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_24.jpg
This is one of the many bazaars in the main population centers of Kapisa.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_25.jpg
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_26.jpg
It seems I have a lot of pictures of old men. I don’t intend to, but they are often very photogenic and animated.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_28.jpg
This kinda reminded me of what I expect a town in the west of the US looked like in the mid-nineteenth century. Sort of an Afghan Wild West (or east in this case).
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_29.jpg
To continue with the antiquity theme.
Afghan_Month_5&6_Web_30.jpg
This pensive man was part of a discussion about development. The people need to help bring security. Then, we follow with development projects. The two are inextricably tied.
So, that covers my time up until mid-April. So, until the next post…
–Jim

South Africa — Cape Town (Part 2)

The final leg of our trip took us back to Cape Town. There we went up to the top of Table Mountain. The view from the top is simply spectacular.
Cape Web 41.jpg
This is Cape Town’s city bowl (or downtown).
Cape Web 43.jpg
Cape Web 42.jpg
Anna’s outline connect Robben Island to the harbor. It’s seven kilometers into Table Bay and we’ll show you pictures from the island a little later in this post.
Cape Web 38.jpg
One of the beautiful vistas from the top of Table Mountain.
Cape Web 39.jpg
Cape Web 40.jpg
Looking out at the Cape of Good Hope.
Cape Web 45.jpg
Cape Web 46.jpg
Camp’s Bay was a great place to share sundowners.
Cape Web 47.jpg
The temperature was perfect … not too hot and not too cold.
Cape Web 48.jpg
A great beach to walk along and watch the sunset.
Cape Web 50.jpg
No, I didn’t retouch this image. This is the natural light. Isn’t she beautiful?
Cape Web 52.jpg
We took a mini-safari when we drove out to Cape Point National Park to see the Cape of Good Hope. These ostrich were getting a little feisty with each other.
Cape Web 53.jpg
Perhaps a bit unsightly, but very tasty (my favorite meat).
Cape Web 55.jpg
Strutting along the road.
Cape Web 56.jpg
We finally reached the most South-Western in Africa (although not intuitive for most Americans [me included], there’s a place to the east that’s a little further south than the cape).
Cape Web 58.jpg
As can see from the image, the wind was quite strong, perhaps a convergence to the two air masses over the Atlantic and Indian Oceans.
Cape Web 60.jpg
Cape Web 61.jpg
This is looking back at the Cape of Good Hope.
Cape Web 62.jpg
Cape Web 63.jpg
The first of two light houses on the cape.
Cape Web 64.jpg
The second.
Cape Web 65.jpg
Still windy.
Cape Web 66.jpg
Another Rock Dassie.
Cape Web 67.jpg
The wind was very useful for kite boarding.
Cape Web 68.jpg
On the way back, we stopped by Constantia, the oldest wine growing region in the cape. So, of course we felt obliged to stop and sample some from a winery.
Cape Web 69.jpg
Moving pollen to help the wine develop a complex flavor.
Cape Web 70.jpg
Steenberg has a classy production.
Cape Web 73.jpg
One of my favorite activities was SCUBA diving with the Cape Fur Seals (AKA Sea Lion). They were incredibly inquisitive creatures. Once we got to the colony the rough seas made for a tough entry and big surge hampered our descent. That aside, once we reached the bottom, we found a sandy patch and sat down to watch the show. The seals would come down and play with us (inches from my mask). I’m not sure who enjoyed it more, them or us. They loved the human interaction and bubbles, and we loved the nimble, aquatic showmanship. It was a great time underwater. However, the people
who stayed on the surface snorkeling, didn’t have as much fun. The seals would play with them, but the rough seas made almost everyone sick. Another good reason to SCUBA! 🙂
Cape Web 74.jpg
The seals didn’t seem to mind rough seas though…
Cape Web 75.jpg
Cape Web 76.jpg
Cape Web 77.jpg
On the way back, we decided to stop at the colorful beach houses on Muizenberg Beach.
Cape Web 78.jpg
Cape Web 79.jpg
One of our final activities in Cape Town was a trip out to Robben Island. This is the former island prison (kinda like Alcatraz) where they held political prisons, including people like Nelson Mandela for 17 years. This quarry is where the prisoners made big rocks into little rocks.
Cape Web 80.jpg
Here you can see Table Mountain and the City Bowl in the background.
Cape Web 81.jpg
Another view of the same.
Cape Web 82.jpg
This is the austere prison cell where Mandela spent several years.
Cape Web 83.jpg
Robben Island also has a large colony of African penguins.
Cape Web 84.jpg
Our final two days were spent back in the wine country. In particular, we stayed at an adorable bed and breakfast in Franschhoek, a village started by French Huguenots several centuries ago. It was a great way to slow down a little, enjoy great food and drink, and just spend time together.
That also wraps up our time in South Africa. It was a great experience, but parting ways again with the knowledge that it would be 5 more months until we saw each other was very difficult. But, today, we have less than 2 months remaining. I continue to let work consume me and Anna tries to enjoy herself in Europe. She’s been able to participate in the official University of Maryland commencement ceremony (even though she officially graduated last year) with my mother. Or, right now, she’s home with her family taking part in the planning festivities for Emma’s wedding in August (her sister).
I’m not sure if the next post will be on Afghanistan again (I have many stories and images to share), or one detailing Anna’s adventures, but we’ll try to post something soon.
Until then…
–Jim

South Africa — Safari (Part 4)

The Kings of Kruger.
Safari Web 121.jpg
Safari Web 119.jpg
She was surveying her domain.
Safari Web 105.jpg
Lions have no fear of people. Although we were in our vehicle here, the window was rolled down and there was nothing stopping them from taking a swipe at us. However, we heard that the smell of the petroleum covers the human scent. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but the lions certainly weren’t fazed by our presence.
Safari Web 106.jpg
Safari Web 107.jpg
Safari Web 108.jpg
This gives a little better perspective on the lions just walking down the road, oblivious to the humans.
Safari Web 109.jpg
Intently watching the grass…
Safari Web 110.jpg
Safari Web 111.jpg
This cub was very distraught. He got separated from the rest of the pride and was trying to find them quickly.
Safari Web 112.jpg
Standing tall.
Safari Web 113.jpg
This is NOT the perspective you want to see a lion approaching you from.
Safari Web 114.jpg
On the prowl.
Safari Web 116.jpg
Man, it’s tough being a lion.
Safari Web 117.jpg
Such powerful creatures.
Safari Web 120.jpg
Safari Web 118.jpg
Safari Web 122.jpg
Safari Web 115.jpg
Safari Web 091.jpg
These guys look like food. Yum.
Safari Web 090.jpg
More kudu on the rock.
Safari Web 089.jpg
Safari Web 085.jpg
We always loved watching the elephants.
Safari Web 086.jpg
Safari Web 087.jpg
Safari Web 088.jpg
Safari Web 096.jpg
Back on another night game drive, we came across one of the most universally reviled animals … the spotted hyena. Our guide told us that someone had been killed by a group of them that week.
Safari Web 097.jpg
The night made them seem that much more sinister. I know it’s being anthropomorphic, but that is what it appeared.
Safari Web 098.jpg
Their gait is so ungainly.
Safari Web 099.jpg
Unlike the lions, these animals definitely knew we were there.
Safari Web 100.jpg
Well, that is the end of our safari. It was a great experience. Many moments of excitement mixed with long stretches where we could just talk, drive slow and enjoy being together. All in all, it was wonderful and I highly recommend the experience.
Up next will be one final post on South Africa … more images from Cape Town.
So, until then…
–Jim

South Africa — Safari (Part 3)

It was another early morning, and we had a spectacular sunrise to watch.
Safari Web 054.jpg
Safari Web 055.jpg
Safari Web 056.jpg
I loved the varying layers of mist as the sun came up and warmed up the savannah.
Safari Web 057.jpg
Somehow, I don’t think the giraffe were impressed by the sunrise.
Safari Web 058.jpg
Safari Web 059.jpg
This unique looking creature is the Secretary Bird. It has an eagle-like body on crane-like legs. In South Africa, the Secretary Bird, while not the official bird, is featured as a symbol on the national coat of arms, representing vigilance and military might, as well as the rise and pride of modern South Africa.
Safari Web 060.jpg
Safari Web 061.jpg
The slender mongoose.
Safari Web 062.jpg
Although I have no idea what it’s sex is, this hippo looks like a female to me. She was startled to see us so close. We were too. Interestingly, the hippo’s closest living relatives are cetaceans (whales, porpoise, etc.). They are also the third largest terrestrial animal after the elephant and white rhino.
Safari Web 063.jpg
Since they spend most of their time in the water, this is normally all that you can see of the hippo.
Safari Web 064.jpg
Here’s a (bird) house with a view.
Safari Web 065.jpg
Pumbaa!!!
Safari Web 066.jpg
Ok, not the most handsome creatures.
Safari Web 067.jpg
Safari Web 069.jpg
Speaking of not the most handsome, this is the Southern Ground-hornbill.
Safari Web 070.jpg
I don’t know if it was something in the air, but this elephant didn’t like us nearby as well.
Safari Web 071.jpg
Safari Web 072.jpg
What can I say? Zebras walking down the road.
Safari Web 073.jpg
Hey, who’s over there??
Safari Web 075.jpg
This zebra was kind enough to strike a pose for me.
Safari Web 077.jpg
They were very cuddly.
Safari Web 078.jpg
Safari Web 081.jpg
Safari Web 082.jpg
These are Peters’ Epauletted Fruit Bats. They were hanging out over our head while we had lunch. Although that may not seem sanitary, we didn’t have any problem.
Safari Web 083.jpg
Safari Web 084.jpg
I think this is the scariest/meanest looking animal we saw.
Safari Web 092.jpg
A Leopard Tortoise sauntering away from us. Although this one was rather small, they can weigh up to 40kg and 75cm long.
Safari Web 102.jpg
More baboons cleaning each other, at or below the speed limit of course.
That wraps up part three of the safari. Only one to go. The star of that one is the lion. Truly kings of their domain.
So, until then…
–Jim

South Africa — Safari (Part 2)

OK, time to move out into the savannah area of the park. Although these pictures would seem to indicate otherwise, there were long periods that we didn’t see any big animals. Of course, there were other times that every turn had a new surprise. This was one of those times…
Safari Web 029.jpg
These two adolescent males were fascinating.
Safari Web 030.jpg
Safari Web 032.jpg
This is Daddy and the two boys.
Safari Web 034.jpg
The small and stout zebra.
Safari Web 035.jpg
Another impala. He was with a group of males and zebra.
Safari Web 036.jpg
These two were sparring. They practice for the day to take over the role of lone male for the harem.
Safari Web 038.jpg
Now a third impala joined the fray.
Safari Web 039.jpg
The blue wildebeest. Although there weren’t as many as the 1 million in the Serengeti herd, there were quite a few.
Safari Web 040.jpg
What’s that smell??
Safari Web 041.jpg
Mmm, tasty.
Safari Web 042.jpg
Just a baby.
Safari Web 043.jpg
But still so tall.
Safari Web 044.jpg
Safari Web 045.jpg
The cape buffalo. Although apparently very docile, they are very dangerous. Reportedly, these animals kill 200 people every year.
Safari Web 046.jpg
Although, we had our own car, we didn’t always drive. When we ventured out after nightfall, we went with a guide and safari vehicle. It was a LOT easier to take pictures from that vehicle and have someone else worry about driving and spotting the animals.
Safari Web 047.jpg
Another female kudu.
Safari Web 048.jpg
We were also fortunate to see both species of rhino: black and white. These are white rhinos. They are so named not for their color. Rather, they refer to the shape of their lip. The white rhino has a flat upper lip and feeds on grasses, while the black rhino has a pointed lip to feed on trees and bushes.
Safari Web 049.jpg
They were fun to watch with the fiery sky as a backdrop.
Safari Web 050.jpg
Rhinos are also part of the famous “Big 5,” along with lions, leopards, elephants, and cape buffalo.
Safari Web 051.jpg
The crocs were out in force that night. I liked his fishing technique. Open up and see what swims in.
Safari Web 053.jpg
Verreaux’s (Giant) Eagle Owl.
Safari Web 093.jpg
The Blacksmith Lapwing or Blacksmith Plover.
Safari Web 094.jpg
Another buffalo eating his way toward us.
Safari Web 095.jpg
For comparison, this is a 5-year old kudu.
Safari Web 103.jpg
This is the Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill. If you’re interested, females lay 3 to 4 white eggs in their nest cavities and incubate them for about 25 days.
Safari Web 104.jpg
The Woodland Kingfisher. Although it is a “kingfisher,” it prefers drier habitats in more traditional woodland and this one was far from water.
That completes part 2. Next up will be hippos, warthogs, elephants, more zebra and bats.
Until then…
–Jim

South Africa — Safari (part 1)

We left Cape Town and flew to the northeast corner of South Africa to visit Kruger National park. We decided taking a vehicle and driving ourselves was the way to go. So, we rented a car from the airport and drove a couple hours to the park. Once inside, it was quite a sight. First of all, this park is not like any other park. It’s huge and teeming with wildlife. Although we could go hours without seeing major wildlife, there was life all around us. For me, the contrast with the Serengeti in Tanzania was stark. Both were great experiences, and I recommend either for a safari experience.
In Kruger, we spent the first few nights at a lodge in the middle of the park and the last two at an opulent lodge, just outside one of the gates (no camping on this trip).
Ok, enough commentary, here are the images from the safari.
Safari Web 012.jpg
This is an African eagle that was landing right after sunrise and one of my favorite images from the trip.
Safari Web 011.jpg
We got up early every morning, since that is often the best time to see the animals. So, although 5:30AM seemed a little early, it made for majestic sunrises.
Safari Web 013.jpg
This eagle was kind enough to pose for us.
Safari Web 001.jpg
This bull elephant greeted us on our arrival to the park. He wasn’t too happy we tried to drive by him, so he turned and made a motion to charge us. Unfortunately, this is one situation we could have used a guide. We didn’t know if it was better to acquiesce and back up, or hold our ground. In the end, we yielded to the massive animal coming our way and he eventually left the road and allowed us to pass. It was an exciting start!
Safari Web 002.jpg
Another bull elephant that wouldn’t allow us to pass. We ended up waiting for about 45 minutes. During which time, he was apparently waiting for a female, as you can see from the picture. Count his legs… 4 legs, a trunk, and yes, that is what you think it is.
Safari Web 003.jpg
Here he is again, with his one tusk. These elephants were huge … especially up close. They were over 10 feet high (>3m) and weigh in at between 11,000 and 13,000 pounds (5-6,000kg).
Safari Web 004.jpg
Impala are by far the most numerous animal in the park. They are in two types of group: all males, or one male with a harem of females (as is the case here)
Safari Web 005.jpg
Here’s another male impala in the late summer grass.
Safari Web 006.jpg
This brightly colored bird was a very active (and efficient) scavenger at our hotel. They sat outside, waiting for someone to leave their plate unattended for a moment, and would flit in to grab a morsel.
Safari Web 007.jpg
Safari Web 008.jpg
This is the sight that greeted us as we rounded a corner… a troupe of baboons.
Safari Web 009.jpg
Safari Web 010.jpg
They are not the nicest creatures so we didn’t mind seeing them in the rearview mirror.
Safari Web 014.jpg
This is a female Kudu. She’s an antelope, and while not quite as impressive as the male kudu you’ll see later, still very regal.
Safari Web 015.jpg
This giraffe was grabbing an early morning bite to eat.
Safari Web 016.jpg
After that, we were inspired to do the same. So, we finished our early morning game drive and came back to our camp to have a latte with a view.
Safari Web 017.jpg
These hippos provided great viewing pleasure.
Safari Web 022.jpg
This is a vervet monkey. However, we also heard them referred to as blue monkeys. You’ll see why in a couple pictures.
Safari Web 019.jpg
Much cuter than the baboons.
Safari Web 020.jpg
Can you see why now?
Safari Web 021.jpg
Safari Web 023.jpg
This is a blue-cheeked bee-eater.
Safari Web 024.jpg
Here is the king of the antelope, a Kudu. You can tell how old they are by the number of spirals in the horn. Each turn is approximately 5 years.
Safari Web 027.jpg
Another female kudu.
Safari Web 028.jpg
This is a female waterbuck and her youngster. They are also in the antelope family.
Safari Web 025.jpg
This is my favorite animal we saw on the trip. The ever elusive leopard. We were fortunate enough to see three.
Safari Web 026.jpg
So, that covers part one of the safari. Three more to go. Up next we’ll have giraffe, impala, zebra, and birds…
Until then.
–Jim

South Africa — Penguins

Despite my best intention, this (and the remaining South Africa posts) have taken forever to publish.
Our journey in Cape Town continued to the beach. We wanted to see the only African species of penguin, Spheniscus Demersus. There are 17 species penguins, but the African penguin is what lives in the Cape Town region.
I won’t belabor this post with a lot of text … just pictures.
Penguins Web 01.jpg
Penguins Web 02.jpg
Penguins Web 03.jpg
Penguins Web 04.jpg
Aren’t they cute? There was lots of penguin love on the beach that day.
Penguins Web 05.jpg
As you can see, the penguins let me get up close and personal with them. However, if antagonized, they do bite. I saw a woman nearby who had a huge welt on her hip because she wasn’t nice to one of them.
Penguins Web 06.jpg
Penguins Web 07.jpg
Penguins Web 08.jpg
Penguins Web 09.jpg
Penguins Web 10.jpg
Penguins Web 11.jpg
Penguins Web 12.jpg
Penguins Web 13.jpg
Penguins Web 14.jpg
Making a nest…
Penguins Web 15.jpg
Penguins Web 16.jpg
Penguins Web 17.jpg
Penguins Web 18.jpg
Penguins Web 19.jpg
I don’t know who this guy is, but he provided a convenient comparison to see the relative size of the penguins. Plus, I think he looks a little like our friend, Tim.
Penguins Web 20.jpg
The beach was a series of sandy areas and this one in particular had the highest concentration of penguins.
Penguins Web 21.jpg
One of the few families with adolescent penguins.
Penguins Web 22.jpg
Penguins Web 23.jpg
Penguins Web 24.jpg
This provides a different perspective of the beach. The boardwalk is where a majority of the tourists stay. It’s the easiest way to see penguins, but keeps you removed from them. I much prefered to be on the beach with them.
Penguins Web 25.jpg
Penguins Web 26.jpg
Penguins Web 27.jpg
Penguins Web 28.jpg
Playing in the surf.
Penguins Web 29.jpg
Penguins Web 30.jpg
Penguins Web 31.jpg
Penguins Web 32.jpg
Again, playing in the water.
Penguins Web 33.jpg
You can see why the beach is called “Boulders Beach.”
Penguins Web 34.jpg
Penguins Web 35.jpg
Penguins Web 36.jpg
Penguins Web 37.jpg
Penguins Web 38.jpg
Penguins Web 39.jpg
Penguins Web 40.jpg
This one was very cute. As I moved the camera to take his picture, he mirrored my movement.
Penguins Web 41.jpg
So, that was our day at the beach with the African Penguins.
Next up will be some images of our Safari in Kruger National Park.
Until then…
–Jim