Day: November 7, 2010

Aix-en-Provence — Dinner and a Mountain

Aix-en-Provence is the closest “big” city… so, we spend a lot of time there.  As such, we’ve found some amazing restaurants.  Our current favorite is Pierre Reboul, which we found thanks to the Michelin Guide again.  This time, it was recommended as a one-star (out of a possible three, but a big deal for the Michelin Guide … only the best restaurants get a star).

Our friend C.C. was visiting for a few days, so we decided it was time to try Pierre (spelled πR, but pronounced the same).  We fell in love with the place.  It had such originality and amazing presentation … plus, most importantly, it was delicious!

So, I hated to be that guy, but this meal was too tasty and beautiful to not make some images.  However, I used the smaller point and shoot and consequently, the image quality isn’t the best.  Hope you understand and don’t hold it against me.  🙂

We chose the 7-course meal.  Of course, each plate was very small, so we could actually finish it all.  This was the appetizer.  It looks like ravioli and lipstick, right?  Actually, the ravioli is chocolate and foie gras, and the lipstick is also foie gras.  Never would have guessed, and the taste … wow.  Amazing.

Caviar in a tin, with some ham on the side??  Nope, a new take on prosciutto e melone.   Yumm.

Lollipop with baguette?  No again.  This time, it’s a frozen carrot Popsicle with a crunchy, cheese filled pasty … matched with a demi-sec Champagne.  Magnificent!

The wines that the sommelier paired with each course really made the experience.  Fortunately, they were small pours, because the pairing was 8 glasses.

Here’s C.C. ready to enjoy her πR dessert.

This was the Fire and Ice course and was one thing that actually was as it appeared.

A little more fire from πR .

That finished our night at the best restaurant we’ve eaten at in a while (perhaps ever … but that’s debatable).  We said goodbye to C.C. and a few days later, turned to the mountain that inspired Paul Cézanne.

Through an arch in the small chapel on the top of Mont Saint Victoire.

Our friends Leah and Anton climbed with us…  Leah works with me, and Anton was down visiting.  It was a nice climb … even X made the climb (in his carrier on my chest).  Alexander was definitely the youngest on the trail that day.

Leah and Anton again.

While the mountain was Cézanne’s inspiration, here is mine.

Ok, that does it for the Aix post.  Up next will be a bit of military training…

Till then…

–Jim

Nîmes and its amazing Roman amphitheater

Nîmes has a long, rich history… It was a former Roman colony that rose in importance and wealth in the first two centuries of the current era.

As such, a huge amphitheater was built to hold gladiator contests (among other contests and spectacles).  The following images our from our visit with Tom and Olga.

The amphitheater was built between the years 90 and 120 CE.  In typical fashion for these huge structures, it became a fortified city in the middle ages.  Then, in the mid-19th century, it was converted into a bull fighting arena.

During the second and third centuries, hunts, gladiator fight and public executions were all held here.

Olga proved to be quite bold.  When she asked me to take her picture by the edge, I didn’t realize she intended to go that far!

Here’s a little better perspective of just how precarious her seat was.  Good things those Romans knew how to build a sturdy building!

As he often does, Tom offered a helping hand … from a safer distance.  🙂  Not to worry, it all turned out well. Tom is a jumpmaster afterall.

The happy couple from their commanding view of the amphitheater.

Olga decided she liked living on the edge and made the circuit on the top stones of the amphitheater.

Tom and Olga.

Anna, Alexander and I… although X is understandably hiding from the bright sun.

A view through one of the archways.

After the amphitheater, we had lunch at a Rick Steves’ recommended restaurant (it was pretty good, but it was no Michelin guide recommendation).  Then, we happened upon this wedding ceremony.  The newlyweds had just got in their car (in front of City Hall … on the left).

Off they went to start their lives together.  It was very cute.

That also concluded our short visit to Nîmes and sadly, our visit with Tom and Olga.  So, we parted ways and headed home back in Provence.

Next up will be a couple sights in Aix-en-Provence.

Until then…

–Jim

Bandol — wine of Provence

We’ve become believers in the Michelin guide.  With only one exception, it has steered us to some amazing restaurants in France.  The one we visited in Bandol was no exception.  Le Clocher was recommended as the good balance of price and quality … and it lived up to expectations.  One thing we’ve had to get used to in France.  Food is expensive, but you truly pay for what you get.  I read somewhere (I know I should cite my source, but I don’t recall at the moment) that the French pay more per person for food than anyone else in the world.  I believe it, but it’s worth the price!

After lunch, we also visited the famous wine appellation of Bandol. We stopped into the Château Pradeaux for a quick tasting.  After which, we strolled through the grounds to appreciate the ripening grapes, berries and olives.

In Bandol, the red wine is capable of aging for a long time.  In fact, the 2005 Château Pradeaux we bought won’t be ready to drink until 2013.  The main varietals Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan.  However, it’s the Mourvèdre that permits the long aging process and gives red Bandol its character.

An aggregate berry, and you know how I feel about those … I haven’t met one I don’t like.  🙂

Getting ripe in the golden sun.

The ubiquitous olive trees.

And even more ubiquitous vines.

After the walking tour of the vineyard, we headed home via Marseilles.

Next up is our trip with Tom and Olga to Nîmes.

Until then…

–Jim

The Calanques

We again visited the gorgeous Calanques.  This time it was with our friends Tom and Olga. Since we’d visited Cassis several times, we decided to try La Ciotat and take a longer boat ride to see more of the Calanques … turned out to be a great plan, with lots of beautiful bluffs.

Off we go!

The Eagle’s Beak.

Amazing coastline, don’t you think?

Would love to live in this house.

The Dog, with lots of kayaks below.

Cap Canaille.

The vertical walls of these Calanques are quite imposing.

Perhaps next trip, we’ll go on a sailboat and take a multi-day trip.

Anna and X hanging out on the boat.

He’s a little sneezer … kinda like his father.

Just chillin.

So, that does it for the trip to the Calanques.  Next up is lunch and wine tasting in Bandol … home of delicious rosé wines and robust reds that need 8-10 years to mature.

–Jim

Sur le pont d’Avignon

Yet another August trip was to the beautiful and historic city of Avignon, with Gabi and Philipp.

Although I’m tempted to get into a lot of history (it’s fascinating … but, perhaps just for me), I will keep it relatively superficial.  Most importantly, it was the seat of the Catholic Church (and necessarily not the Roman Catholic church) during the 14th century.  This led to what’s known as the schism in the Catholic Church.  It all came about when a guy named Raymond Bertrand de Goth was elected pope in 1305 and was renamed Clement V.  He was of French origin and had been the archbishop of Bordeaux.  He decided to move the papacy to France and unusual for a pope, he spent his pontificate, by and large,  supporting the French monarch, Philip IV.

In order to become the new papal city, Avignon went through a major transformation.  The Pope’s palace, the Palais des Papes, was a result and became the largest Gothic castle in Europe.  Avignon remained the seat of the papacy until 1377 when a further split happened.  Avignon was to become the seat of the anti-popes until the 1789 revolution overcame the last vestiges of the church’s religious structure in the city.  Then, during the 19th century the palace was used as a military barracks and prison.  The slow decay and military occupation destroyed much of the original splendor of the palace, but in 1906 it became a national museum and has been nearly continually repaired ever since.  In 1995, the Avignon city center (including the palace) was named a UNESCO world heritage site.  Ok, enough history, on with the images.

The Palais’ bell tower is still magnificent.

A view of an interior courtyard in the palais.

A soldier’s uniform … and not too much different than the Swiss Guards of today, although those weren’t unveiled until January of 1506.

A wooden model of what the Palais loos/looked like from the exterior.

War, peace and beauty in the same image.  Seems to often characterize churches (any).

From another interior courtyard.

This elephant is a recent addition to the front of the Palais.  He was placed there by the artist Miquel Barceló this summer as part of a larger exhibition throughout the city.  He’s made of bronze, weighs six tons and is nine meters tall.  Last I read, he’s scheduled to come down today, 7 Nov 10.

The exterior wall of the Palais.

Elephant and Palais.

As the title of this post, of course we had to visit the famous bridge.  As you can see, ironically, it doesn’t actually cross the river anymore.  It has been non-functional since the 17th century.  However between the 12th and 17th century, it was the only fixed crossing of the Rhône from Lyon to the Mediterranean.

In the famous song, people would dance on the bridge.  However, while it was functioning as a bridge, people would probably have danced below it, if they danced at all.  Today, there is a road in place of dancing people.

On the bridge, looking back to the Palais and downtown Avignon.

Gabi and Philipp kissing, instead of dancing on the bridge.

One final image of the bridge and a little song…

Sur le pont d’Avignon
L’on y danse, l’on y danse
Sur le pont d’Avignon
L’on y danse tous en rond
Les beaux messieurs font comm’ ça
Et puis encore comm’ ça

That finishes our trip to Avignon.

Next up will be another trip to the Calanques and the famous wine town of Bandol.

Until then…

–Jim